You have an advantage in that you can benefit to a degree from the experience of Gen 1 4.7 owners as well.

 

my 4.7 is stock. except for muffler shop installed dual flowmasters and true dual exhaust which im sure did nothing for performance but thats not why i did it. i wanted the sound and look. oh and i took the charcoal filter out of the air box...that gained me like a bazillion HP and even more MPGS....

sorry cant really help ya but then again i havent been in a situation where the performance of my truck wasnt more than adequate as is.....

 

Well, thanks for the response. I took out the charcoal filter last week... haven't really noticed any difference yet, but I only have a 6 mile city-road drive to work everyday, so maybe once I get on the x-way, I'll notice something.

Why did you do the duals if not for power??? Sound?

 

Take care to properly quantify your modifications. Don't just go by feel or by sound as this can trick you. Dragstrip tests and/or chassis dyno are best.

 

Well, thanks for the response. I took out the charcoal filter last week... haven't really noticed any difference yet, but I only have a 6 mile city-road drive to work everyday, so maybe once I get on the x-way, I'll notice something.

Why did you do the duals if not for power??? Sound?

yeah the charcoal filter does nothing...been discussed here at length...just like the infamous "battery disconnect" deal that people claimed got tons of gains... and yes, duals for sound. same reason 99 percent of people go that route instead of a mandrel bent over priced but tested and tuned bolt on system. oh yeah, and i mentioned sound was why i did it in my response.

we have 4.7's in a big truck. ur not really going to do much to gain anything measurable. its adequate but even if you get 10 hp more or even 15 by some miracle of bolt on stuff you arent going to notice it any...

 

Take care to properly quantify your modifications. Don't just go by feel or by sound as this can trick you. Dragstrip tests and/or chassis dyno are best.

Yes, thanks.... that's exactly what I was hoping for when people posted their mods & results. Butt Dyno's stink :loco: --- hopefully some other 4.7 owners have some proven results they can share; I think the 4.7 has a lot of potential (all things considered). Too bad I can't retro-fit a supercharger from the first-gen Tundras..... at least, that seems to be the consensus (that they won't fit the new models).

 

Yes, thanks.... that's exactly what I was hoping for when people posted their mods & results. Butt Dyno's stink :loco: --- hopefully some other 4.7 owners have some proven results they can share; I think the 4.7 has a lot of potential (all things considered). Too bad I can't retro-fit a supercharger from the first-gen Tundras..... at least, that seems to be the consensus (that they won't fit the new models).

yeah not really sure why none of the power adders from the previous gen 4.7s will work but they dont/wont/cant. ive seen some intakes and some exhaust systems and some headers but thats about all ive seen. i think it would be cool to throw a blower on it but oh well.

 

i think it would be cool to throw a blower on it but oh well.

Never mind that. Get over to the body shop and make sure they aren't using water based paint!! :sada:

 

Okay - Here's a Dyno from Thorley for their headers (this was sent to me back in Sept). Looks like good, consistent gains through the powerband.

Also, here's a dyno from Gibson for their single exhaust for the 4.7.

Anyone try either of these in real-world applications?

 

Anyone ever tried one of these electric "superchargers" on their intakes? Looks like a scam, but would be funny if it actually works. Apparently this one e-Racing :: OFFICIAL SITE :: The e-RAM Electric Supercharger from e-Racing Motorsports only activates when you're at WOT.... that's their claim to fame at least.

Here's what they say for their warranty:

Performance Guarantee:
After purchasing and (properly) installing the e-RAM on your engine, you do not feel that the performance increase is what we have claimed (4%-6% HP increase), you just need to do the following within 30 days of receiving your e-RAM to get a full refund*.. Take your car to a dyno test in your area. Make dyno runs with and without the e-RAM activated, and take a picture of how it was installed. Mail the e-RAM back to us with the picture, a copy of your receipt, and a clear copy of your dyno comparison results (signed as witnessed by the technician running the dyno). If the dyno shows the e-RAM does not increase horsepower in your engine by an average of at least 4% of its previous horsepower throughout the 3000 to 6000 rpm range, and we conclude from the picture that you have installed the unit correctly, we will give you a full refund* and even pay for 1/2 your dyno fee! (up to a maximum of $50 reimbursement) *Full refund does not include shipping charges *Please see "compatibility information" section below We challenge any other manufacturer of aftermarket bolt-on horsepower devices to make the same commitment! We know it works!
(10/04) We now accept G-Tech performance meter tests for validation of performance gains.

And, here's the compatibility section as listed above:
Compatability information:
NEW UPDATE (10/04): After continual comprehensive testing, we have found that there are only three reasons for the e-RAM not providing HP gains.

1) For some engines with Mass-Air-Flow (MAF) Sensors, performance gain can be effected by the position of the e-RAM on the intake.
Late model vehicles from AUDI, FORD, MAZDA, & NISSAN RESPOND WITH HP GAINS ONLY WHEN THE e-RAM-INLINE IS MOUNTED BETWEEN THE MAF SENSOR AND THE THROTTLE-BODY. Included in this list is the late 90'S GM 2.4L ENGINES (found on Cavalier and Grand AM)All other makes of vehicles and engine types allow for the mounting of the e-RAM in any location regardless of ECU and air-sensor type.

2) Performance gain is limited by the size of your engine.
In order to produce the 1 PSI of pressure to the intake, the e-RAM requires a minimum air-flow ratio of 2.5:1 (e-RAM air-flow VS. engine air-flow requirement). The 2006 model e-RAM flows 800CFM, and a 5.0L engine requires a maximum of 450 CFM at redline & full-throttle. Because of this, an engine must be 5.0L displacement or smaller for the e-RAM to produce the 5% HP gains through max RPM. All engines above 5.0 Liters will require two e-RAMs in parallel (separately) feeding a single intake to get 4%-6% gains (or one e-RAM per intake on dual throttle-body engines like the Dodge Viper V10)

3) Performance gain is limited by the current HP output of your engine. We have found that engines that produce greater than 325 HP require two e-RAM units in parallel to receive 5% HP gain (reason is much the same as #2 above)

 

This will help you...

Butt Dyno [ARSE411] - $399.95 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!




I have no other informative information in this post.

-rockstate

 

This will help you...

Butt Dyno [ARSE411] - $399.95 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!




I have no other informative information in this post.

-rockstate

Yeah, I saw that b4... hilarious!

I'm just curious if anyone has tried one & dyno'd... and if the company honored their guarantee. Not likely someone in this forum... these are probably more prevalent in the smaller "boy-racer" cars. My little brother and his early-20's buddies are driving around in their little Subaru's, Mitsubishi Lancers..... etc etc. He found this online and asked me about it - I figured it was a scam, but wanted to see if anyone had experience with it, that's all.

 

stay away from electric ANYTHING boost, and those EBAY chips that trick the air temp sensors, its all a scam... i removed my charcoal filter, noticed squat, still get ****** mileage. i've wanted to have a muffler welded in to get some sound out of it but thats all ive ever looked into doing. no big power adders out there to bolt on, no real engine mods (cam's, etc).. just MAF's, programmers, etc which i dont believe in anyways, especially for how much the stuff costs. hate to say it, but if getting more power out of your truck was a goal, 5.7 stock form could have solved that. still dont know why anyone would want anymore power than our 4.7 offers, ive done some NASTY smoke shows, donuts, drifting in my truck that make peoples jaws drop and go WTF?!

if money wasnt an object, id piece together a remote turbo setup and find a company to setup a programmer for boost (bigger injectors, maf waveforms, etc)

 

Yeah, I saw that b4... hilarious!

I'm just curious if anyone has tried one & dyno'd... and if the company honored their guarantee. Not likely someone in this forum... these are probably more prevalent in the smaller "boy-racer" cars. My little brother and his early-20's buddies are driving around in their little Subaru's, Mitsubishi Lancers..... etc etc. He found this online and asked me about it - I figured it was a scam, but wanted to see if anyone had experience with it, that's all.

Haha man reading that second paragraph I thought you didn't know it was a joke! Then I realized you were talking bout hte post above me

Blinker Fluid [BF-01] - $8.99 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!

Always another good one :lol:


-rockstate

 

i think that butt dyno stuff is a joke anyways...... those g-tech things would be sort of a good way to notice power gain from knocking time of 0-60s, 1/8s and 1/4 miles..

 

I did have my truck dyno tested. Before and after getting cat back exhaust. But I am a gen 1 so I guess I dont count
I can post the sheet to show you but basically you are not going to see much of an increase in power from that. Maybe a couple of ponies at best. Besides, even if you got the 10 these guys always promise, do you really think that you could feel an increas of 10hp when your truck is pumping out approx 270 hp? That's not even a 4 % increase. I would post the sheet right now but I am at work and it is on my computer at home.

 

I did have my truck dyno tested. Before and after getting cat back exhaust. But I am a gen 1 so I guess I dont count
I can post the sheet to show you but basically you are not going to see much of an increase in power from that. Maybe a couple of ponies at best. Besides, even if you got the 10 these guys always promise, do you really think that you could feel an increas of 10hp when your truck is pumping out approx 270 hp? That's not even a 4 % increase. I would post the sheet right now but I am at work and it is on my computer at home.

How about your AFE Intake - any before & after Dyno's of that? After reading through alot of posts, it seems like there's no definite answer for YES or NO, and alot of people say just to keep it stock

 

How about your AFE Intake - any before & after Dyno's of that? After reading through alot of posts, it seems like there's no definite answer for YES or NO, and alot of people say just to keep it stock

No, never tested again after the exhaust. I was too pissed to spend the money again. I did talk to rep at Magnaflow and asked how come they got 10 hp and I got 1.4hp. The guy told me it was because they install the exhaust and then give the ecu time to adjust to the new exhaust. I put mine on and dyno'd (spelling?) it right away. He said I should have done the same as they did if I wanted to see better numbers. After that he did not really have a lot to say. I still have a hard time believing that I would have gotten 8 more ponies if I gave the ecu time to adjust. Most say you can expect about 5hp gain. You should see about the same from an intake. So, adding the 2 together you should see about 10 hp. But from what I have read is that the sum of the 2 together can get you a little more. Maybe with both together you can get 12 or 15 hp. Not sure. Dont get me wrong. I like my exhaust and my intake. Exhaust gives a nice rumble and the big dual chromed tips out the side look nice to me. The intake sounds really good too when you open it up. But just putting these 2 things on my truck didnt make it a monster. Like I said, can anyone really feel a 10 or 15 hp increase on a 270 hp motor?I think some guys and their butt dyno's are hearing the sounds and that is why they think they feel more power. Not sure. Just remember, I am not a pro so please dont think otherwise. I am just offering opion like most. Except of course for the dyno sheet which I will try to attach here.
To answer your question regarding intakes adding power according to independent testing read the following and judge for yourself. By the way, they are quoting the new 5.7 as well;

Edit: I am trying to attach my dyno sheet but when I hit the "insert image" button it is only allowing me to ente a url of a website same as the "insert link" button. Not sure what I am doing wrong here. Mr Creosote, any ideas?

 

Adding a TRD cat back and going to lighter and slightly smaller wheels reduced my Gen 1 quarter mile by only a tenth, from 15.4 to 15.3. The biggest single performance gain it had was Hi_Volt's airbox mod, which dropped it to 15.0. :heh:

 

I put JBA headers on my 4.7 for a very nice gain... opps that was my '00 Tundra. For my '07 I just got the 5.7!!

HP is never cheap, if you really want added HP have a fat wallet.

 

ecu time to adjust lol.... that doesnt make ANY sense what so ever. just because the exhaust may allow more flow at high rpm's, any measurements and readings are from the catalyst and back towards the engine, and even the catalyst 02 sensor only monitors emissions effeciency, only the front 02's read air/fuel to allow the ecu to make proper adjustments.

best power youll find for the money is a set of cam's, which ive never seen available, or slap a baby bottle on it NAAWWZZ!

 

best power youll find for the money is a set of cam's, which ive never seen available,

There we are.

 

those are for our 4.7's??? please post a link or some sort of info!!

 

I have owned several Tundra's with the 4.7. New had a bit of problems of any kind with that engine. In a first gen Tundra it provided plenty of power for the truck though it struggled a bit with a load. I have a boat and a lawn service type trailer. When loaded it knew it. Mileage dropped significantly. It still performed nicely. My only mods were the Borla duals and a K&N air filter.

2-weeks ago on a trip to Boca Raton I met with a new distributor of Marine Industry items. We met a a diner in the boat district of Ft. Lauderdale on Hwy 84. On the phone I asked him what he drove since we had never met. He said a Toyota truck. Shortly I see a 2002 Sequoia, black in color. I did not know the model year but asked the guy how he liked his Toyota. He said it was awesome. It appeared brand new. When I found out it had 285k with one timing belt replacement and regular oil changes I was floored.

Don't be concerned about your 4.7's. With basic care they will last for a long, long time!

Now I have a 5.7 and truly respect the power, smoothness and knowledge of how long it will last. No more trading every few years. In this economy I might keep this one until it drops or I can no longer afford to feed it!

Bob

 

those are for our 4.7's??? please post a link or some sort of info!!

Right, those particular ones are for the VVt-I motors. These are for the non VVt-I.